Dec 27
cherishma r asked:
hi everyone….
recently i got a leather sofa and love seat.we stay in the second floor so the new ones had some scratches in the corners while transporting them…can anybody tell me what i can do for them and how to maintain my leather furniture for the future.i have spent a fortune in buying them so i would like to take good care of them….
and are there any home made remedies and tips for leather care from household products…thank you
Cat Insurance
hi everyone….
recently i got a leather sofa and love seat.we stay in the second floor so the new ones had some scratches in the corners while transporting them…can anybody tell me what i can do for them and how to maintain my leather furniture for the future.i have spent a fortune in buying them so i would like to take good care of them….
and are there any home made remedies and tips for leather care from household products…thank you
Cat Insurance
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December 28th, 2008 at 3:07 am
Go to your local auto supply store and ask them what they recommend for use on leather car seats.
December 29th, 2008 at 11:11 pm
Protected Leather
* Do not place your furniture too close to a radiator or a similar source of heat. Make sure that there is a minimum of two feet between your furniture and your heat source.
* Protect your leather furniture from direct sunlight.
* Dust frequently with a clean dry cloth…preferably once a week.
* Wipe occasionally with a mild Ivory soap and water solution on a clean damp cloth.
* Repeat with a clean damp cloth and dry with a clean cloth to restore the beautiful patina of the leather.
* Remember, leather is very durable but not accident or injury proof.
* Water-based Spills and Stains (i.e., coffee, ketchup, milk, etc.) may require the “Leather Cleaner”. Please refer to the following Leather Cleaner instructions.
* Oil-based Spill and Stains (i.e., popcorn grease, salad dressing or other non-water soluble spills or stains). Wipe the leather clean with a clean, dry cloth. Allow for the remainder of the stain to dissipate into the leather. Do not apply any Leather Cleaner, Leather Conditioner, water or soap on oil-based stains.
* Never use soaps, saddle soaps, oils, all purpose cleaners or solvents. Use of these products could damage the finish. The use of any cleaning substance other than a mild Ivory soap and water solution will negate any warranties from the leather tannery. Modern tanning techniques do not require such products. Most spills will blot up easily with a dry cloth or paper towel.
Unprotected Leather
* This is a natural leather that cannot be cleaned because it does not have a protective coating.
it’s important for you to know the different types of leather. Nubucks and sensitive leathers require their own special products. As the type of leather moves higher in comfort level, it decreases in durability and resistance to soiling and increases in need for proper care and maintenance. Knowing your leather’s needs and maintaining it will help keep your investment looking new and beautiful longer.
* Nubuck – Process of raising fibers on grain side of hide to give nap effect by buffing.
* ***** / Full Aniline – Leather that has been dyed with aniline, a transparent dye which permeates the entire hide. However, there is no pigment (paint) or finish put on pure aniline dyed leather to correct or hide imperfections.
* Semi-Aniline – Leather that has been dyed with aniline, a transparent dye, which permeates the entire hide. However, there is either a clear lacquer or slightly pigmented finish applied to improve resistance to wear and light.
* Pigmented – Hides that are aniline dyed, then treated with a heavy pigment (paint) and top coating.
* Pigmented & Embossed – Pigmented leather that has been embossed with an artificial grain to improve the appearance.
* Corrected, Pigmented & Embossed – Pigmented leather that has been totally buffed of any imperfections, then embossed with an artificial grain to improve the appearance.
* Split – The underneath layer of the hide which has been separated from the top grain. Split hides are generally weaker than top grain leather and may be used in less expensive upholstered furniture applications.
NOTE: This information was provided by the manufacturers and tanners of leather for the furniture industry. Jordan’s
Note: The difference between myself and the next poster is that I am not selling leather care products.
December 30th, 2008 at 3:52 pm
Using household products and ‘old wives’ remedies are very short sighted when it comes to cleaning and caring for leather and can become very costly in the long run as problems they generally cause will be costly to put right. (although it does keep people like ourselves busy as we rush round fixing problems caused by using the wrong things!!!)
Firstly check the type of leather you have so that you understand the results that are possible:…
You need to use a good quality water based foam leather cleaner. (LTT Leather Shampoo) With light coloured leather dye transfer from clothing can be a problem although using a good quality leather protector (LTT Leather Protect) will help inhibit this. For dye transfer and ingrained dirt you may need a much stronger cleaner like Strong Cleaner or Maxi Cleaner (this should be used with caution)
DO NOT use anything containing oils, waxes or silicones. (Most ‘conditioners’ contain waxes or oils) and furniture polish (pledge) contains silicones which will eventually destroy the finish on the leather. Most car cleaners also contain oils or waxes so should not be used as they leave residues on the surface of the leather which attract more dirt which eventually leads to cracking.
BABY WIPES are the worst thing you can use as they will destroy the finish on your leather. This has been verified and proved to be the case. They are actually a very strong product and this is why they break down the finish. Leather is not like skin and should not be treated as such.
Saddle soap should never be usd on upholstery leather or garments it is meant for saddles which are very different from todays finished leathers.
A lot of leather wipes contain chemicals which will also destroy the finish or leave residues on the leather which will damage it. They are not cheap in the long run as you would need a lot to clean. A bottle of foam cleaner should do your car about 3-4 times.
Fairy liquid contains more salt these days to get dishes clean and this will break the finish down on your leather. This has been verified by the manufacturers (as with the baby wipes).
Magic Erasers should not be used unless you are going to renew the finish on you r leather. We have tested these recently and they sand away the top finish on the leather.
You should also follow cleaning with a good water based leather protector which will act like a ‘scotchgard’ and inhibit dirt and stains from being absorbed and make cleaning easier the next time. Conditioners are totally unnecessary and only a product push by manufacturers.
Dry leather needs rehydrating with water and oils and waxes should not be used as the natural oils do not dry out of leather. Wiping over with a damp cloth regularly will help to do this.
It is important to maintain a regular cleaning regime cleaning dirt off the surface regularly and inhibiting the absorption of body oils into the leather with a protector is the best way of doing this. The only ‘moisturizer’ a leather needs is from water.
The alternative is a brand new product on the market called Lazy Leather. This is the latest technology in cleaning and combines an effective cleaner with a protector. It is quick and easy to use and should be used as a maintenance product once your suite has been cleaned or from new if you have just bought it.
Using incorrect care products is usually the cause of deterioration in the leather as unfortunately most car care products contain waxes and oils or silicones which do not do the leather any good.
Further cleaning instructions and a care leaflet are avaialable here:…